Lisbon 2025: Our Annual Andrew Extravaganza
Thursday, October 23rd – Arrival & Saldanha Evening
Our yearly Andrew extravaganza a month before his birthday! He chooses the city and the show and we meet up from all over. This year: Phantom of the Opera in Lisbon!
From the Hague to Schiphol and our three-hour flight TAP Air flight to Lisbon in a flow.
Landing, we took the metro (one line) to Saldanha, paying at the turnstile with our Dutch debit cards (yes for the EU!) and checked into our hotel :EXE Saldanha (via booking.com hotel +flight)—more luxurious than I had expected.
By 9:30 PM local time (one hour behind us in CET), we were hungry and ready to explore. Olivier found A Parte, a restaurant practically opposite the hotel, a hidden gem with a leafy terrace.
Dinner was a revelation: moqueca de camarĂŁo, Brazilian-style tiger prawns in coconut milk, lime, fresh ginger, and coriander. Lorenzo, our waiter, gave us a tour of the charming, gardened interior with cozy booths. Saldanha felt like a peaceful, elegant corner of Lisbon, full of leafy avenues and old noble architecture.
50+ Tip: Even a short evening stroll around Saldanha rewards you with calm streets and beautiful buildings—perfect for easing into a new city. And it is 21 degrees!
Friday, October 24th – Hills, Panoramas & Alfama
After Qigong, chanting, and a breakfast at Hygge (a Scandinavian cozy café – I had mentioned local to Olivier!!! But it was lovely), we Ubered to Mirador da Senhora do Monte. From this viewpoint, the city unfolded beneath us: the Castelo de São Jorge, the Tagus River, and the Alfama district, beautiful and colourful despite the clouds.
Did you know? Castelo de São Jorge dates back to the 11th century, built by the Moors, and offers one of Lisbon’s best panoramic views.
We wandered through to Igreja da Graça, admired the church’s bell tower and breathed in the lovely, serene smell inside, then continued to Monasterio de São Vicente de Fora, founded in 1147. This one we decided to discover inside, and it was well worth it. Chapels, tombs, marble hallways, cloisters and a wonderful tile exhibition of Jean de La Fontaine’s fables (Delft-blue style) reminded us how centuries-old art still tells clever, timeless stories.
After a lovely coffee in the sun, we wandered over to the, Panteão Nacional—where illustrious figures like Vasco da Gama rest in their ornate tombs. We climbed and climbed and climbed stairs till me reached the Cupola gallery for 360° city views. Well worth it and grateful we keep fit so that all of this is still easily possible to us.
50+ Reflection: At our age, fitness transforms steep steps into joy. Lisbon’s hills aren’t obstacles—they’re rewards. Every terrace, viewpoint, and pastry feels earned.
Lunch in Alfama: grilled sardines, pastei de bacalhau, potatoes, and Vinho Verde on a terrace. Pure happiness. Wandering through Alfama’s streets, murals, and trams makes hours disappear.
Afternoon: Belém, home of the Torre de Belém. I hadn’t realized it is that far away; walk would have been 1.40 and public transport so we actually took an uber. Such a fantastic system, you know the price, pay in advance, they pick you up where you agreed and drop you off where agreed. Plus, I Love talking to the drivers. We had Indian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani who all talked about the ease to enter Europe here but that afterwards the conditions are pretty harsh.
Anyway, the Torre was sadly entirely swallowed up in scaffolding. Still, it is a lovely part of town, and the light drizzle added to the charm. We walked along the water to the conquistador monument which commemorates the Portuguese Age of Discovery, not just conquest. The monument features a stylized caravel with a representation of Henry the Navigator at the prow, leading a procession of 32 other figures from Portugal’s Age of Exploration.
Then inland a tiny bit to the beautiful Monasterio de Jerónimos (we actually did not go in as we were pretty shattered by then, but I guess is really worth the visit. This masterpiece was built over 500 years ago to celebrate Portugal’s great Age of Discovery — when explorers like Vasco da Gama were sailing off to find new worlds.
The building itself is pure magic — all creamy stone, lace-like carvings, and peaceful cloisters that make you want to slow down and breathe it all in.  And, interesting fact, it was all paid for by a tax on the spice trade — proof that cinnamon and pepper really can make history!
We started wandering in the direction of the centre and miraculously (seen our sense of direction) fell on the legendary patisserie Pastéis de Belém, custard tarts since 1837. Warm, creamy, flaky, sprinkled with cinnamon—completely irresistible. The queue to enter and sit was huge, but you can buy to go and we did; six of them which we promptly devoured.
We escaped the increasing rain for a tea, but seen Happy Hour starts around 3 and they had lovely cocktails for 3EUR50, I tried a Portu tonic which was lovely. We meandered to the Centro cultural as I wanted a book. Mission accomplished.
Dinner near the hotel: bacalhau, squid, fig cheesecake, panna cotta, and two complimentary liquors. Happiness and good service for €65.
50+ Tip: Don’t skip small terraces, local eateries, and a final pastry in each neighbourhood—these are Lisbon’s true treasures.
Saturday, October 25th – Streets, Marathon Energy & Phantom of the Opera
Andrew (our reason for gathering here) is sadly sick in Barcelona and will not join, but in his spirit we all decided the show must go on and we will proceed with the initial plan.
23 degrees!
Divine hotel breakfast then took the metro to the neighbourhood of  Paixa Chiadu and explored the famous Augusta Street, stunning aristocratic buildings, wrought iron balconies, and soaked in the marathon energy at Praca do Comércio where they have been arriving for the past 5.5 hours.
Did you know? Lisbon’s marathon routes take runners up all seven hills of the city. Every step is a workout—and a scenic tour.
Coffee at Praca Rossio, admired the beautiful Elevador de Santa Justa, a stroll along Pink Street (famous street with hanging parasols and pink floor famous as night life hub), and seafood snacks at the market and up to the iconic funiculars (immobilised since the terrible accident earlier this year which killed 16 and injured 20).
Lisbon is best experienced on foot: cobblestones, steep hills, narrow pavements—every step is a sensory delight. Though I was thinking that precisely these elements would make it a not ideal Retirement spot for the less agile…
Evening: Show time and we met up with Andrew’s glorious friends for dinner before the show, warmth and laughter and a good occasion to practice my Spanish.
This year we are seeing Phantom of the Opera at Sagres Campo Pequeno. Front-row seats! We could see every emotion of the orchestra and performers. Standing ovation, tears, and Portuguese pride from the prima donna. (Turned out it was the last of a two year international tour and it could not have been more perfect, grandiose, electric and superb from all points of view)
50+ Reflection: Traveling after 50 is about freedom and connection—front-row seats aren’t just about view; they’re about experiencing life fully.
Sunday, October 26th – Sea Me, Ray Fish & Farewell
Bright skies and 25 degrees for our final day. Such a great city to walk in, markets and cafes, parks and the sun was warm!!! Gentle living, walking, stopping for coffee, absorbing, delighting.
So glad we decided to walk the 45 minutes to o Sea Me Peixaria Moderna, an incredible seafood restaurant where we met up with the others and shared fresh rays, crab pâté, tomato rice, and Verdelho wine. Dessert? Crème caramel, lemon meringues, and black chocolate mousse—divine extravaganza indeed.
Back to hotel to change, collect luggage, hop on metro and enjoy a last pastei de nata at the  airport—Lisbon rewards every step with food, sunshine, and laughter. Emotional goodbyes with Andrew’s gang reminded me: Travel at 50+ is about freedom, friendships, and savouring each moment.
50+ Tip: Always pick a city where you can combine walking, culture, food, and friends. Lisbon has it all.
Reflections & Recommendations for 50+ Travelers:
Quote to remember: Lisbon — where sun, sea and soft hills meet, and every little step feels like a treat for the soul.
Lisbon at 50+: freedom, fitness, flavours, friendships, and fun. Hills climbed, steps counted, tarts devoured, and memories made—what more could one ask for?
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