When I found out our mystery destination was Paris, I’ll be honest — I felt a little pang of disappointment. Paris again? I’ve lived here, studied here, wandered these streets more times than I can count. Surely there was nothing left to surprise me?
How wrong I was.
This Paris was different — softer, greener, calmer. A city reborn, where cyclists outnumber cars, canal paths invite long slow walks, and café terraces spill over with laughter. Over six glorious days, we flowed from waterways to wine bars, from street art to starry rooftops, from indulgent tarts to spontaneous conversations.
This wasn’t just a getaway — it was a reminder that even at fifty (and fabulous), there’s always more to discover. More beauty. More joy. More connection.
Because Travel after 50 isn’t about ticking boxes — it’s about staying curious, following flow, and saying yes to the unexpected (and the extra glass of rosé).
Here’s to rediscovering the City of Love — and maybe a little more of ourselves along the way. 💫
Day 1 – Surprise & Wonder (with a Twist)
I had no clue where we were going. Olivier had managed to keep it secret for weeks. When the train rolled into Gare du Nord my heart sank just a little. Paris? Really? I know it so well — I lived here, Olivier too, and my parents are just an hour and a half away. It felt almost ungrateful to be disappointed, but I couldn’t help it.
And yet — how wrong I was. He had planned every day a new discovery!
We dropped our bags and set off towards the Canal Saint-Martin. Starting near République, we followed the water all the way up to La Villette, about six kilometres in total. It was like discovering another city: calm, green, picturesque locks and footbridges, graffiti-splashed walls, painted barges, and groups of friends sprawled along the quays.
At the Bassin de la Villette, we claimed a sunny terrace — mozzarella salad and rosé for me, fish and beer for Olivier. Bliss. (💡 Tip: The terraces around the Bassin are perfect for lunch — less crowded and much more affordable than central Paris. And if you fancy, you can even rent little boats here.)
We wandered into Parc de la Villette, and again I was amazed. Vast green lawns, playgrounds, sports pitches, museums, the shimmering silver sphere of the Géode. Paris felt fresher, greener, more fun than I remembered. Perhaps it was because it was Liberation Day, with many streets closed to traffic, replaced by cyclists and joggers. But even so — the city smelled better, looked cleaner, moved differently.
From there we pushed on to Parc des Buttes-Chaumont — and thank goodness Olivier had insisted on walking shoes. The park is all steep paths and hills, dotted with picnics and laughter. We aimed for the Belvedere (closed for renovations), but strolling around was joy enough. (💡 Tip: Buttes-Chaumont is one of Paris’s most underrated parks — pack good shoes and be ready for hills.)
By the time we reached our hotel, we were happily exhausted. And oh, what a room! Le Village, a smart little concept hostel just behind Sacré-Cœur: dormitories downstairs, a handful of private rooms upstairs. Our room, under the roof with old beams, thick walls, and a big window looking straight at the basilica, was pure magic. A love nest with a view. (💡 Tip: Don’t dismiss hostels — many now offer private rooms at half the price of hotels, and sometimes with even better views!)
After tea and a rest, Olivier led me back up towards Sacré-Cœur. The steps were alive with singers (some talented, others less so), groups of friends, and that special evening energy. Dinner was at Le Cabanon de la Butte, a tiny restaurant with maybe ten tables and a dreamy view over Parisian rooftops. We toasted with champagne (€10 a coupe — incredible), and then indulged: my roasted sea bass with Chablis, his côte de bœuf with Côtes du Rhône, desserts with liqueurs poured like buckets. (💡 Tip: If you want that authentic Paris feel, look for tiny bistros away from the big squares. Prices are often lower, the food better, and the atmosphere pure charm.)
Afterwards, we slipped into Sacré-Cœur itself, lit candles and whispered prayers for those we’ve lost. Outside, the sun melted into the horizon. Later, one more terrace — champagne for me, gin and tonic for him — because why not? Gratitude spilled over: ten years together, still laughing, still curious, still us.
Back in our little nest under the roof, Olivier’s phone buzzed with news: a new Pope elected in record time, Leo XIV, an American with ties to Peru. I fell asleep almost instantly, Sacré-Cœur glowing in the window, RED our cat purring in my thoughts.
A perfect first day.
Day 2 – Celebration & Memory
We woke to Sacré-Cœur glowing outside our window — how many people get that as their morning view? Ten years together. A full decade. It felt right to celebrate our anniversary here, in this “different Paris” we were discovering together.
We strolled first through Montmartre, a village within the city, full of cobbles, artists’ ateliers, and cafés where the coffee is strong and the croissants still warm. (💡 Tip: If you stay near Montmartre, start your day early before the tourist groups arrive. You’ll have the streets almost to yourself.)
Then on to the Louvre — majestic, intimidating, and still overwhelming even after previous visits. The sheer weight of history in those halls! Of course we made the pilgrimage to the Mona Lisa (don’t expect a quiet, private moment — she’s permanently mobbed). We had fun whispering our own irreverent commentary as we dodged tour groups. (💡 Tip: Buy your tickets online in advance; it saves the endless queuing. And don’t try to “do” the Louvre in one day — pick a wing or a theme and allow yourself to enjoy it without museum fatigue.)
Later we wandered to Olivier’s grandmother’s old street. That neighbourhood carries its own special flavour — small groceries, cafés with zinc bars, façades that seem unchanged for decades. It was touching to see how Family memory still linger for him in bricks and mortar.
As evening fell, we climbed back up to Montmartre for a cosy dinner. The kind of Parisian restaurant where the tables are elbow-to-elbow, the waiter brisk but secretly amused, and the wine flows generously. (💡 Tip: In Paris, don’t be put off by small, crowded places. They often serve the best food — and part of the fun is eavesdropping on your neighbours.)
It struck me how this anniversary wasn’t about a grand gesture (though secretly I’d loved the surprise). It is about the many small moments of joy shared, the complicity, the togetherness in all authenticity.
Day 3 – Water, Flow & Surprises
Another gloriously sunny Paris morning. I started as usual with hot lemon, chanting, energising movements, Yoga, and Qigong. Tiny room under the beams, but so much space for stretching and moving — it makes such a difference to start the day feeling alive and aligned.
✨ Tip: Even a small space works — just 10 minutes of movement can shift your energy before heading out to explore.
We headed to Alma Monceau to celebrate the weather with a Bateau Mouche ride on the Seine. Yes, it’s touristy — but sometimes clichés are clichés for a reason. The perspective from the water is unlike anything else: Paris unfolding gracefully, bridges arching overhead, the Eiffel Tower winking in the distance. The breeze in your hair, the city gliding past — bliss to just rest legs and back and enjoy the show. We chatted with a lovely Scottish couple behind us and simply let ourselves be in the moment.
✨ Tip: Book a morning cruise — it’s quieter and the light on the water is magical. Bring sunglasses, suncream, a small scarf, and water.
After the boat, we strolled along the Quais, discovering deckchairs, little urban garden islands with hammocks, picnic spots, and hidden spots for people-watching. I loved how Paris encourages you to pause, breathe, and soak in life. Lunch was an indulgence on a barge under Pont des Invalides, Flow Art, soaking up the sun. Forget calories in Paris — go for what brings joy! Olive went light with no alcohol; I indulged — vacation, after all. Quirky touches, views from the water, and friendly staff made it charming.
✨ Tip: Bars or restaurants on barges are both practical (space, toilets, sun) and Instagram-worthy.
Next, the Musée d’Orsay — a former railway station, now brimming with light and masterpieces. We lingered with Van Gogh, Renoir, Monet, and discovered Norwegian artist Christian Krogh, whose tender portraits reminded me how art can deepen empathy.
✨ Tip: Don’t try to see it all — choose a few rooms or artists that call to you and give them your full attention.
From there, we wandered Saint-Germain, enjoyed a biere blanche and a tarte au citron to lift our energy, then headed to Ile de la Cité to see the newly renovated Notre Dame. Incredible that after the 2019 fire, it stands proud again. Outside, Paris never stops surprising — one metro station away, Barbès Rochechouart was a completely different world: chaotic, intense, lots of people, a reminder to keep your wits about you.
Back in Montmartre to recharge, the day culminated in a fabulous surprise dinner with my youngest brother Alex and soon-to-be wife Adeline at L’Eldorado, near Porte de Clichy. The inner garden, candlelit and magical, was intimate and romantic with just the right mix of glamour and warmth. Champagne, exquisite wine, incredible food, and desserts that made us laugh and sigh — the perfect celebration of connection and love.
✨ Tip: A great restaurant is more than food — look for atmosphere, personal touches, and little quirks that make a night unforgettable.
By the end of the day, exhausted but elated, I reflected on the word flow — the Seine’s current, the brushstrokes of the Impressionists, the steady hands rebuilding Notre Dame. Us, flowing through it all, grateful for where life has carried us — and where it will still carry us. Paris by the water, Paris with art, Paris with family — all in one day, and all completely different Parises depending on where you wander.
Day 4 – Montmartre, Catacombs & Pigalle Glamour
Another sunny morning. We woke up feeling exhausted but blissfully happy. Positive messages from Shannon (looking after RED and the others) made it even sweeter. We climbed Sacre Coeur once more — it was busier than usual, long queues for mass. We decided to skip the dome this time (we’d save that for another day) and instead wandered freely, turning down alleyways that called to us.
Tip: Wander without a plan. Some of the most memorable moments come from alleyways, tiny cafés, or sun-drenched squares.
We stopped for coffee on the famous Place du Tertre — mega busy, touristy, but still radiating authentic Montmartre charm. Watching the artists, the tourists, the locals, it all felt alive. Later, at the Musée de Montmartre, peace reigned — gardens, roses, Renoir’s swing, Montmartre vines. Expositions on Luce and the cabaret Le Chat Noir made history come alive. We even walked past the former homes of “the infernal trio” — Maurice Utrillo, Suzanne Valadon, and André Utter — whose turbulent lives shaped the artistic fabric of Montmartre.
Lunch was a relaxed stop at Café des Deux Moulins — known from the set of the film Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain. Rtaher rundown but follof quirky local characters gossiping away (rather drunk), sharing their life story (rather dramatic).
Navigating Paris: We made great use of the Navigo Easy card — a rechargeable pass you can load with t+ metro/bus tickets or even day passes. So much easier (and cheaper) than buying singles every time.
✨ Tip: Get a Navigo Easy card on arrival (€2 one-off), then top up as needed. Saves time, hassle, and paper tickets that always seem to vanish in bags!
Catacombs adventure: We had booked a time slot at Denfert-Rochereau, walking down about 1 km with an audio guide. Not claustrophobic at all, surprisingly calming. Seeing 6 million bones stacked by type — skulls here, femurs there — was eerie yet strangely respectful.
The catacombs originated in the limestone quarries beneath Paris, dug since Roman times. By the late 18th century, city cemeteries were overflowing, so bones were moved underground. What struck me most was the democracy of it: rich and poor, young and old, all bones arranged together, side by side. No names, no hierarchy. Just humanity.
✨ Tip: Bring walking shoes and a light jacket; it’s cool underground (14°C) and there’s quite a bit of walking and uneven ground.
On the way back, Parc Montsouris — sun, picnickers, kids playing, joggers — a total contrast to the catacombs. We rested, sipped soft drinks, and felt alive in the light and warmth.
Evening: Pigalle, our big treat. Dinner and show at La Nouvelle Eve, celebrating 100 years of glamour. Three-course meal with champagne and wine on tap, combined with a dazzling show — feathers, glitter, CanCan, talented singers, acrobats, even a hilarious male performer dangling with ropes above a bath full of water and tossing his hair provocatively (though I wondered why HE was not in a G-string!). Pure fun, energy, and escapism.
✨ Tip: Treat yourself to a show with a full meal — Parisian cabarets are immersive experiences.
The rain pouring outside only added to the adventure as we returned home. Herbal tea, chocolate, and collapsed into bed, buzzing with joy.
Day 5 – Exploring, Indulging & Living Fully
Our last full day, and Paris greeted us again with sunshine. We felt rested, grateful, and determined to squeeze out every drop of magic before heading home.
We began at Les Invalides, its golden dome glittering above the city. Inside, Napoleon’s tomb is vast and imposing, surrounded by tributes — all carefully designed to impress then wandered our way over to the War Museum. Huge, covering many wars. Even though very well done with a lot of artefacts and information I was simply not in the mood. I find the state of the world with amongst others as I write a genocide in Gaza, war in Ukraine, Trump’s megalomania, fear of war, rearmament across Europe, climate crisis so much. I worry for our children, Peace and this exhibition certainly reinforced the sadness, the horror, the futility, the inhumanness of what ‘man’ can do to man.
Afterwards, we strolled to a lively bistro for lunch — Le Recrutement and settled in under the awning as it started to drizzle. We looked at the menu, told ourselves we’d keep it light, and then laughed and indulged instead. A good meal, a glass of wine, dessert… why not? Seize the day. That’s what travel — and life after fifty — is about.
✨ Tip: When in Paris, let go of calorie counts. Order the tarte au citron, say yes to that glass of wine. Joy fuels the soul.
The afternoon took us to the Conciergerie — once a royal palace, later a prison (especially during La Terreur, it held Marie-Antoinette and Robespierre). Standing in her reconstructed cell, I could almost feel her presence — her courage, her despair. A sobering contrast to the indulgence of lunch, but that’s Paris: extremes sitting side by side.
We couldn’t resist one last climb: the dome of Sacre Coeur. Nearly 300 steps — steep, winding, and narrow. How grateful I am that we keep fit. The view from the top was indescribable — rooftops, monuments, and the whole of Paris spread beneath a brilliant blue sky.
✨ Tip: The climb isn’t easy, but it’s doable if you’re reasonably active. Wear good shoes, pace yourself (not that I do), and take pride in every step — the view is worth it, and so is the sense of achievement.
Back in Montmartre, chance gifted us one of those moments that makes travel magical. It started raining so we cozied up next to two glorious young German girls in full “celebration of life glow” in reds and oranges and pinks, with ruffles and feathers. They certainly brightened things up and got into a long conversation with them about life and making the most of the moment, being truthful to oneself. One then proudly gave me her card “Clit love” with tagline “Glad you found it” hilarious!! It started light and fun, then deepened into something meaningful — about life, choices, dreams. These are the encounters I treasure: spontaneous, heartfelt, fleeting yet lasting. This is why I travel — not just for monuments, but for humanity along the way.
Evening descended, and we wandered Montmartre one last time: narrow streets, cafés buzzing, souvenirs tucked in our bags, one more song drifting from the steps of Sacre Coeur.
Back in our love nest under the beams, the basilica glowing outside our window, we felt content, grateful, and very alive. Paris had surprised us with its many faces and reminded us again to say yes — to food, to people, to life.
Day 6 – Farewell Paris, Until Next Time
Our final day in Paris dawned with that familiar bittersweet feeling — not quite ready to leave, yet full of gratitude for everything we’d seen, done, and felt.
Instead of cramming in too many sights, we chose to savour. We strolled once more along the Seine, stopping to sit on those iconic deckchairs scattered around the little green islands. That’s what I love about Paris: the way it constantly invites you to pause, to be rather than rush. No shortage of cafés, benches, or even toilets — Paris makes strolling a pleasure at any age.
At lunchtime, we indulged again, this time without a hint of guilt. My motto in Paris? Seize the day! I even treated us to “grand dessert’ and last coupe of champagne to thank Olivier for this magical gift.
As we wandered through Montmartre one last time, I kept glancing up at the Sacré-Cœur, gleaming against the sky. From our quirky little hotel room with its beams and slanted roof, we had looked straight onto it every morning — a reminder that beauty was always just outside our window.
What struck me most, though, was how traveling sparks unexpected connections. Like the night before with the two German girls at the restaurant: an impromptu chat turned into a meaningful exchange about life, freedom, and dreams. That, for me, is the real magic of travel — the conversations you didn’t plan for, the perspectives you’d never hear at home.
And as we lugged our suitcases down those Parisian steps (yes, another chance to be grateful for keeping fit!), I realized once again how these trips are not just about the places, but about us — how open we are, how curious we remain, how ready we are to say yes to life.
✨ Paris reminded me: Fabulous after fifty doesn’t mean slowing down. It means daring, savouring, connecting, and saying ‘oui’ to what lights you up.
As the French writer Gustave Flaubert once said:
“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.”
And yet, what a joy to keep exploring our little place — with eyes wide open, hearts wide open, and bubbles in hand.
The post Paris, But Make It New: A Fabulous After 50 Journey Through the City of Love appeared first on The Kennedy Connection.
