✈️ Thailand Travelogue – Fabulous After Fifty Edition
Thailand is one of those places that grabs all your senses at once and refuses to let go. From the moment you step out of the airport, it’s an orchestra of smells (some divine, some questionable), colours so bright they look Photoshopped, and a heat that makes you glisten in places you didn’t know you could glisten.
Bangkok & Tuk Tuks
Bangkok is a city that doesn’t just hum, it roars. The tuk tuks dart through traffic like dragonflies on espresso, and there’s me — clutching the seat for dear life, mentally rehearsing my obituary: ‘She lived a fabulous life, but her final ride was in a three-wheeled tin can.’ Fabulous after fifty? Absolutely. Fabulous and mildly terrified after fifty? Even more accurate.
Markets & Food
The markets are a world unto themselves — a kaleidoscope of colours, fabrics, spices, sizzling woks. Bargaining is half theatre, half sport. I argue like a seasoned pro over 20 baht (roughly 50 cents) and walk away triumphant… only to later hand over ten times that for a latte. Priorities, darling.
And then there’s the food. Oh, the food! Every bite is fireworks. Spicy, tangy, sweet, sour — sometimes all at once. Of course, I never quite learn to say “mai phet” (not spicy) with conviction, so my lips go numb, my eyes water, and locals watch me with amusement as I try to style it out: “Oh yes, this is exactly the look I was going for.”
Temples & Serenity (sort of)
In between the chaos are the temples — serene, golden, shimmering. The moment you step inside barefoot, the world hushes. Calm seeps in, even for chatterboxes like me. I must admit though they were just a bit too much on the shiny golden side for me.
Thai Massage Adventures
And then, the massages. Everyone says they’re relaxing. I’m not so sure. Having a tiny woman climb onto my back and fold me into a human pretzel felt more like a martial arts demonstration than a spa treatment. At one point, I was convinced I’d never walk again. But lo and behold — I stood up straighter than I had in years. Clearly, she knew what she was doing.
Island Escapes
And just when the city becomes too much, Thailand gifts you its islands. White sand, turquoise water, palm trees doing that lazy sway. You think you’ll be all graceful goddess strolling the beach… until you realise walking in soft sand after fifty is less ‘goddess’ and more ‘baby giraffe.’ But who cares? The sea doesn’t judge, and the sunsets make you feel like you’ve slipped into a painting.
Enjoy…
Thailand Travelogue
Day 1 – Departure & Arrival in Bangkok
Was it Friday already? The day started with work, a quick gym session (thinking it might be a good idea before a long flight), and then a rushed lunch. By 1:30 pm we were on the bus to the airport. Outside it was a chilly 7°C and pouring rain, so leaving didn’t feel like a hardship.
Check-in went smoothly, and we treated ourselves to a glass of bubbles in the lounge before boarding. Because nothing says ‘I’m a seasoned traveler’ like pretending airport prosecco is vintage champagne” Dinner, wine, and a film later, we landed in Bangkok on Saturday afternoon around 4:30 pm.
After collecting luggage, buying SIM cards, and finding a taxi, we reached our hotel. The drive was bumpy with uneven roads, lined with billboards, but eventually we arrived at a modern studio apartment.
The next morning, we enjoyed our first Thai breakfast: watery rice porridge, fried donuts, and pork dishes (not for me). Different, but delicious. We set out to explore nearby temples and parks, encountering monks in saffron robes everywhere and bright marigold garlands decorating shrines.
Already the contrasts of Bangkok hit me: from chaotic roads and gleaming billboards to serene temples filled with incense and flowers.
Day 2 – The Royal Palace & Temples
Jet lag wasn’t too bad—we woke around 7:30, did some Yoga, and had a lavish breakfast spread with Thai, Indian, and Western options. I tried dragon fruit, divine pineapple, and the mysterious but tasty rice soup.
Dressed modestly for the day (long trousers and sleeves required), we set off for the Royal Palace. The heat was intense—32°C and humid— 32°C with humidity is basically nature’s way of giving you a free sauna. Fabulous after fifty? Yes. Fabulous and sweaty after fifty? Even better. but the visit was extraordinary. Our guide led a small group through dazzling golden stupas, galleries of intricate murals, and the Emerald Buddha, carved from a single block of jade and dressed seasonally by the King himself.
The scale and richness of it all left my mind spinning—gold everywhere, ornate rooftops, mythical creatures guarding the gates.
From there, we visited Wat Pho, home to the enormous Reclining Buddha, 46 meters long, gleaming in gold. The air was thick with incense, flowers, and the rhythmic clinking of coins dropped in offering bowls.
Needing a break, we stumbled upon a vegan café for cooling soups and smoothies before hopping on a ferry across the river to Wat Arun, the “Temple of Dawn.” We climbed the steep white steps, surrounded by people in traditional costumes hired for photoshoots.
In the evening, we rode the river ferry farther south, past glittering skyscrapers, to the King Power Mahanakhon Skywalk—the tallest building in Bangkok. From the 78th floor, we(actually I) stepped onto the glass platform looking straight down 314 meters. It made my stomach flip, but the panoramic views, DJ beats, and even fireworks made it magical. Feeling Fabulous!
We ended the night with fried noodles and shrimp near our hotel, exhausted but exhilarated.
Day 3 – Golden Buddha, Golden Mount & Canal Life
Sleep was lighter with jet lag catching up, but a morning swim and sauna helped. At breakfast I experimented with Thai-style dishes—soups, soy milk with toppings—while observing what locals actually eat.
We started at Wat Traimit, home of the Golden Buddha, an impressive 5.5-ton statue of solid gold. From there, we climbed the Golden Mount, 344 steps lined with bells, gongs, and waterfalls, up to sweeping views of the city. I rang the great gong and wrote a wish on a golden leaf to hang by the temple.
Our first tuk-tuk ride followed—hair-raising yet fun—taking us to a canal pier. A longtail boat carried us through Bangkok’s “klongs,” passing wooden houses on stilts, half-sunken shacks, grander villas, and enormous golden Buddhas. At one point our boat even got stuck, rocking precariously until another boat freed us!
Later we wandered the vast Siam Square malls, a surreal contrast of endless shopping temples to modern consumerism. In the evening, we tracked down a rooftop bar on the 54th floor of a funky building, sipped Thai gin and tonics, and admired the glittering skyline before heading back for a Chang beer and snacks at our hotel.(I have discovered the delight of cold beer here, was not a beer lass before).
Day 4 – By Train to Ayutthaya
I finally tried the “real” Thai breakfast: broth with herbs, rice vinegar, and condiments(I had the pork balls removed). Surprisingly light and tasty! Then we packed up and left our Bangkok base.
The taxi ride to the station was an adventure in itself—traffic inching forward, skyscrapers sprouting everywhere, gigantic billboards flashing the faces of pale-skinned K-pop-style boys advertising beauty products.
At the sleek central station, we boarded a third-class train to Ayutthaya. Wooden benches, no air-conditioning, windows wide open. Hot, crowded, and dusty—but also perfect. A slice of real Travel life.
Ayutthaya, once a wealthy cosmopolitan capital destroyed in 1767, is breathtaking. Our guesthouse—small bungalows around a lotus pond—was charming. We rented bikes and pedaled to red-brick ruins and towering stupas, many Buddhas headless, yet still serene. At Wat Mahathat we saw the famous Buddha head entwined in tree roots.
Later, we joined others on a boat trip around the island. We visited temples glowing in the golden light of sunset, saw fish thrashing in temple ponds, and wandered through ruins filled with bats. The air was heavy with humidity and mosquitoes, but the beauty was unforgettable.
Dinner was at a Family-run restaurant, where we indulged in spicy soups, green curry, and (of course) more Chang beer.
Day 5 – Slow Morning & Bus to Sukhothai
Finally a slower start. Yoga, chanting, and a swim before breakfast on the terrace. We tried sticky rice sweets steamed in banana leaves—filled with coconut and palm sugar—simple and delicious.
After catching up on emails and travel notes, a tuk-tuk brought us to the bus station. On the ride, we met Margot, a brave 23-year-old French solo traveler from Brittany, heading the same way.
The bus was blissfully comfortable: air-conditioning, snacks, and even a meal stop included—all for €20 each on a six-hour journey north through lush countryside dotted with temples and Buddha statues.
I used the time to listen to Freedom Era trainings and felt re-inspired. The landscape rolled by in shades of green, while we settled into the rhythm of slow, thoughtful travel.
Day 6 – Cycling in Sukhothai
Early start with a transfer to the cycling point. We got bikes and off we went, exploring the old Sukhothai site in the morning. Absolutely magical. The kind of place that makes you feel like Indiana Jones but then in more glam even if just as sweaty.
After lunch we explored the surroundings till we could move no more, such a fabulous day. We ended up absolutely drenched. Free spa treatment: sweat, dust, and eau de mosquito repellent.
Back at the hotel, we had a swim and a nap before heading out for a lovely dinner at Chopper, a good restaurant we’d spotted earlier on our bikes. There’s even a little shelf beside the toilet for your phone. Finally, recognition of modern human priorities.
As we headed out, imagine my delight when I discovered a whole convoy of MX-5 drivers doing a grand tour of Thailand! Naturally, I had to let them know I’m the proud owner of a rare Phoenix edition and immediately connection is made! It’s like being part of a specific tribe!
After dinner, we went for massages. Olivier was folded into shapes not even seen in yoga books. Meanwhile, I had a “foot massage” that mysteriously migrated to my thighs, neck, and head. At this point, I think “Thai massage” just means “good luck guessing what happens next.”
Day 7 – To Chiang Mai
An early tuk-tuk ride to the bus station. Honestly, it felt like being chauffeured in a shopping trolley welded to a motorbike. One sharp brake and I’d have been flung straight into the future.
We got on our big comfy bus and off we went for 5.5 hours. The legroom was enormous — instead of a seatbelt, I had a USB port. Safety first, clearly.
On arrival in Chiang Mai, we hopped in a taxi to our guesthouse. A charming place with beautiful furniture and a very helpful host. Our bed was so enormous we could have rented out half of it on Airbnb. Dinner nearby and then… blissful sleep.
Day 8 – Wandering Chiang Mai
We started the day with a delicious breakfast, then wandered through the city and discovered the night market and food court, where we had a late lunch. So many stalls, so much linen. I could single-handedly clothe a small yoga retreat if I gave in to temptation.
It was very hot, so we returned for a swim and nap. Not feeling so fabulous today — my stomach decided to remind me that even enlightened travellers need a digestive reality check.
In the evening, we bought black baggy pants. Olivier strutted around like a ninja. I looked like I’d joined a monastery. Fabulous either way.
We had dinner at a rooftop bar. Great food, wonderful views, and a breeze that felt like heaven.
Day 9 – Elephant Day
We had booked a day trip to an elephant sanctuary after a thorough check this was one of the approved, animal-protecting ones. Just wonderful! The elephants were so impressive, so majestic. Feeding them was pure joy — though the elephants were clearly professionals at hustling tourists for bananas.
We then made food balls (their healthy snacks) and washed them in the river. The elephants were clearly amused by our efforts. Walking beside them was unforgettable and at one point I was so…. close. Then we walked them to their night camp, thanked them for their generosity and tolerance and headed back to Chiang Mai.
A fabulous day. Honestly, forget yoga or mindfulness apps — stand in a river with a half-ton elephant splashing water at you, and you’ll feel more present than ever.
Day 10 – Chiang Mai to Ao Nang (via Bangkok & Krabi)
Up early — really early. As in 5:00 AM early. My stomach was still negotiating terms with me, but by 6:00 AM we were in a Grab taxi (the local Uber) heading for Chiang Mai airport. Super-efficient: in, out, and coffee in hand before I had time to realise.
The domestic airports here put most European hubs to shame. For €5 you get a latte, free WiFi, and air-conditioning that could freeze a durian. Our flight back to Bangkok was smooth, and I buried myself in Bombay Anna — the story of Anna Leonowens (of “The King and I” fame). What a woman.
Bangkok airport, however, was a different story. No space to work unless you fork out for lounge access. So we splurged €25 each on the Diners Lounge Coral. Honestly? Worth every baht. Buffet, hot meals, proper desks, strong WiFi, charging stations, even bubbles and beer. I behaved (tummy still fragile), sticking to broth and rice, but Olivier took one for the team.
Our onward flight to Krabi was delayed, but with phones, books, and lounge food we hardly noticed. I slept most of the 90 minutes travel .
Arrival in Krabi was pure comedy. We’d booked a transfer to our hotel, expecting a standard taxi. Instead, we got a psychedelic minivan that looked like Liberace had decorated a spaceship: plush recliner seats, disco lights, carpet that glowed, and — wait for it — a mirror ceiling. For €20 we had the whole groovy limo to ourselves. Honestly, I half-expected Elvis to climb in.
As the sun set, we caught glimpses of Krabi’s dramatic limestone cliffs before our driver veered us into what felt like the middle of nowhere. Sure enough — it was the middle of nowhere. Not Railay Beach, not Ao Nang proper, but a sleepy little spot called Ao Nam Mao. Thankfully, our wooden bungalow by the pool was simple, quiet, and exactly what we needed.
Dinner was stir-fried noodles and seafood in the empty communal dining area — with the Entertainment provided by a group of backpackers who BYO’d their own beer. Resourceful! I stuck to watermelon juice and went to bed dreaming of white cliffs and disco vans.
Day 11 – Beach Bliss & Scooter Shenanigans
At last — a proper lie-in! I even took a sleeping pill and woke at 9:00 feeling vaguely human. My toe, however, was throbbing an alarming shade of purple. Graceful traveler? Not I.
Breakfast was simple but fresh: pineapple, watermelon, toast, and rice dishes. For €53 total (three nights for two people!) I wasn’t expecting much, but it was far better than most budget stays I’ve known.
We wandered down a jungle path to the beach and — surprise — not a soul in sight. Deserted. Not a café, not a deckchair, not even a coconut seller. Just turquoise water, rock formations, and us. Blissful, a true gift.
Our perseverance paid off: clambering over rocks (toe screaming in protest), we found the B Bar. A thatched-roof hideaway with giant cushions, chill-out music, and a view over the sea so perfect it felt like a film set. Add an excellent cappuccino and I was in heaven.
We carried on exploring, eventually stumbling across another stretch of sand where we reclined on beach cushions, cracked open fresh coconuts, and floated in bathtub-warm water. It felt decadent, like Mother Nature had given us our own private spa.
In the afternoon, we rented a scooter. Olivier — cool as a cucumber — drove like he’d been born on two wheels. I clung on behind, clutching Google Maps like a nervous GPS goddess. We zipped into Ao Nang town: hot, crowded, full of tourists and tattoo parlours. Honestly, not our scene. But mango smoothies in the air-conditioning saved the day.
Back at our little hideaway, we discovered a nearby bar with beanbags on the sand — and the most spectacular sunset I’ve ever seen. We ordered sangria by the litre, listened to chill music, and watched the sky turn every shade of pink and gold. Pure magic.
Day 12 – The Four Islands & Phi Phi
Up at 5:30 AM for our Early Bird speedboat trip — the only way to see Phi Phi before it’s swamped by thousands of day-trippers. Worth it.
We boarded at 7:00 with about 30 others: Brits, Americans, Poles, and us. Our guide was a gem — organised, funny, and gknowledgeable and he came prepared: coffee, fruit, sticky rice parcels, water, soft drinks… you’d think we were crossing the Atlantic.
Highlights? Oh, so many:
By 4:30 PM we were sunburned, salty, exhausted, and utterly delighted. Easily one of the most beautiful days of the trip.
Back at the hotel we squeezed in a swim, then scootered off to sort out boat tickets for tomorrow’s island hop. More cash, more laughs, more mosquito repellent. And — because we couldn’t resist — one last sunset at our beloved beanbag bar. Chang beers, another fiery sky, and the smug knowledge that we’d done Phi Phi the fabulous way: early, less crowded, and fully immersed.
Day 13 – The Crossing
It’s starting to feel like the end. Poor Olivier’s tummy violently disagreed with him in the night, but thankfully he got it all out of his system. He was left pale and drained, so the plan was to take things slow. A swim perked him up, and we managed a light breakfast before hopping on the scooter for one last mini adventure.
Past a village whose name I couldn’t pronounce even if you bribed me, the road abruptly stopped. But we spotted a sign for the Dragon’s Nest Café, which a few Brits had raved about yesterday. Three kilometres straight up later (our scooter wheezing but loyal), we arrived at this funky jungle hideaway: wooden platforms clinging to trees, cushions, lanterns — the kind of place that looks like a bohemian fairy-tale rave waiting to happen.
We plonked ourselves down with a view over the misty bay. Olivier wisely stuck to coffee, while I had my first chilled cappuccino. Divine. They even supplied mosquito cream along with the drinks. That’s how you know you’re deep in the jungle: coffee, cake, and bug repellent served side by side.
Back at the hotel we packed, returned our faithful scooter (topped up by a smiling lady at a one-pump shack), and headed to Ao Nang pier. Too early for the boat, we lounged at a beachside bar on famous Hat Noppharat Thara beach. Mango smoothie for me, seafood salad for lunch — which turned out to be actual fire on a plate. My lips went numb, but I pretended it was intentional.
Toilets here deserve their own chapter. You wash your feet before entering, squat if you’re brave, and bring your own paper. As I returned with mine, a monkey suddenly appeared on the roof and did a bit of voyeurism…
Then came the downpour: a proper tropical storm, the kind that reminds me of Africa, with thunder cracking and rain hammering on corrugated iron. We all huddled together companionably until the boat finally departed, everyone drenched but smiling. That smell of rainfall on hot earth…
The crossing was exhilarating: 40 minutes of speedboat spray and limestone cliffs rising like sentinels. After a brief stop at a busier island, we reached our final destination — Koh Yao. Quieter, wilder, and exactly what we needed. We always allow ourselves one taste of utter luxury per trip.
Our resort was jaw-dropping: wooden bungalows tucked in the jungle, huge terraces, open-air showers, and an infinity pool that looked like it melted straight into the bay. I swam in a state of profound gratitude. Olivier nibbled at spaghetti Bolognese, still fragile, while I bravely tackled crab curry. By 7:50 PM we were back in our bungalow. Wild, I know.
Day 14 – Poolside Gratitude
We woke in paradise. Wooden bungalow, jungle sounds, and blessedly — Olivier feeling better. I unrolled my yoga mat on the terrace, greeted by a giant lizard who’d clearly been partying there all night. My 12 sun salutations have rarely been this dramatic.
Breakfast was a feast: tropical fruit, noodle soup, rice, tofu, and a delicious cappuccino. We then did the unthinkable: nothing. A full day of poolside indulgence. Swimming, dozing, sipping mango smoothies, listening to webinars (me) and reggae beats (the pool bar). Honestly, I could get used to this version of fabulous.
By late afternoon the skies cleared into cinematic blue, and I toasted the view with a spiced Thai rum cocktail that nearly set my eyelashes on fire. Dinner was sea bass in pepper and soy, eaten poolside. We clinked glasses, called it a “respectable” 6:45 PM dinner, and were in bed before the mosquitoes realised we existed.
Day 15 – Island Adventures
Up early, chanting and tea on the terrace while Olivier snoozed. After breakfast, we rented a scooter and set off to explore Koh Yao like true middle-aged rebels in shorts and sunscreen.
First stop: Laha Beach, also called the Sandbank. A powder-white strip of paradise with no cafés, no deckchairs, no anything. Just us, the sea, and stingrays somewhere underfoot. We paddled, picnicked, and pretended we were marooned millionaires.
Then on to a batik shop run by a family determined to keep the craft alive. Bags and purses later, we collapsed into the café opposite for fresh fruit shakes. Shopping with a side of Philanthropy — win-win.
The next beach involved 40 minutes of scootering, including five through the jungle on a muddy, rock-strewn track. I hopped off more than once, aware that wild snakes also live here. (Because nothing says relaxation like remembering you’re not at the zoo.)
At last we reached Lo Pared Beach. More developed, but still wonderfully low-key. We settled at Yai Beach Resort, ordered Chang beers and spring rolls, and watched black clouds gather like theatre curtains. Sure enough: lightning, thunder, tropical downpour. Instead of massages on the sand, the ladies ushered us upstairs for an oil massage with the sound of rain and waves. Absolute bliss.
Back at our own village, we cleaned up and treated ourselves to a seafood platter for two: crab, prawns, barbecued fish, sweet potatoes, and enough rice to feed an army. A margarita for me and a second glass of wine instead of dessert. After all, grapes are fruit.
Day 16 – Farewell, Thailand
Our last morning on the island. We woke at 6:00 to catch the sunrise, though the sky had other plans: grey and rainy. I didn’t mind. There’s something soothing about warm rain when you’re tucked under a parasol with coffee and a purring cat in your lap ( a local ‘stray’)
Breakfast, a swim, and then the inevitable: packing. The departure system was delightfully organised, with colour-coded ribbons on luggage for different destinations. (Though our bags almost sailed off without us.)
The speedboat whisked us back to Krabi in 30 minutes, and soon we were at the airport — freezing, as always, thanks to aircon set to Arctic. I finished Bombay Anna and mused about Anna Leonowens’ extraordinary life while nibbling on rubbery eggs. Glamorous, this wasn’t.
The flight back to Bangkok was smooth. From the window I caught a last glimpse of jungle, limestone, and turquoise sea, and thought: I may never return to Thailand, but how lucky I am to have been here.
Bangkok’s Don Mueang airport was its usual efficient chaos: ticketed taxis, queues moving like clockwork. The city greeted us with neon lights, laundry strung in alleys, and billboards featuring pouty young men advertising skin-whitening cream. Thailand never fails to surprise.
We checked into Cross Vibe again, grabbed a simple dinner at the mall, and — to my great disappointment — couldn’t find mango sticky rice for a final hurrah. Instead, we went to bed with Netflix and a sense of completion. Fabulous, slightly battered, and grateful.
Closing Reflections
Thailand was everything and nothing I expected. I came for temples, beaches, and food — and I found all of that in glorious technicolour. But what surprised me most was how alive I felt simply saying yes to the adventure.
Yes to the tuk-tuks that made my hair stand on end.
Yes to massages that left me feeling both broken and reborn.
Yes to jungle hikes that reminded me my legs still work (even if they complain louder now).
Yes to new faces, new flavours, and a new sense of “why not?”
Travel at 20 is about ticking off sights. Travel at 50+? It’s about letting the sights tickle your soul — and laughing at yourself along the way.
I didn’t just visit Thailand. I tasted it, tripped over it, bargained badly in it, floated down its rivers, sweated through its jungles, and stood in awe of its golden temples. And every bit of it whispered the same message: life is meant to be lived — messily, fully, fabulously.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. But for now, I’m heading home with a heart a little fuller, a body a little sorer, and a spirit a whole lot shinier.
Because after all — isn’t that what being Fabulous After Fifty is all about? 🌺✨
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