A clap of thunder and rain slamming against the window woke me from a deep sleep last night, an omen for the day ahead. By morning, the rain had eased, but the sky remained slate gray and threatening. We hadn’t gone far before the rain returned. What should have been bucolic farm scenes unfolded instead […]
Tonight, as I write this, I am exhausted. It was a VERY full, and very wonderful, day. We started by driving to the outskirts of the city to the James Tellen Woodland Sculpture Garden. It is one of the artist-built environments that has been preserved by the Kohler Foundation. We started by driving to the […]
This morning, I flew to Milwaukee, the start of a Midwest trip on the trail of outsider art and friends and family. I met up with my friend Judy at the airport and within minutes of collecting a rental car, we were on our way to the Milwaukee Art Museum. It’s a place I have […]
Tomorrow Liz flies home to Louisiana and I return to NYC. That meant driving from Big Bend to El Paso, about three hundred miles. We had all day, so it shouldn’t have been onerous. But overnight, everything changed. The temperature dropped from over one hundred degrees to mid-fifties in the morning and the temperature never […]
For decades, Big Bend National Park lived in my imagination, one of those alluring but remote places that always felt just out of reach. It is situated in a vast corner of west Texas where distances stretch endlessly. Getting here requires intention. And patience. And a willingness to go far beyond “on the way.” Now, […]
I suspect that for nearly everyone reading this, these two town names are completely unfamiliar. I’d certainly never heard of them before planning this trip to West Texas. Both sit just outside Big Bend National Park, small outposts on the edge of a vast landscape. But let’s start at the beginning. We left Fort Davis […]
The Museum of the Big Bend is small, unlike its subject. It was a great orientation, offering a clear, engaging introduction to the region’s geology and human history, from prehistoric times to today. For such an isolated area the interactions among native Americans, the Spanish, and Americans has been very active. For those of us […]
Before leaving Marfa this morning, we stopped at the courthouse. Several people had told us the interior was a step back in time, and they were right. The original wood has been lovingly restored, and the architecture harkens back to an earlier West. Standing in the courtroom, I found myself thinking of Inherit the Wind […]
We began with breakfast at the Sentinel, part restaurant /coffee shop, bookstore, gallery, and informal town square. Within two minutes we were in conversation with a couple from Dallas. It is the kind of place that invites connection, whether you planned it or not. Crossing the street, we wandered into a few shops. In one […]
My friend Liz was flying into El Paso to join me for a West Texas road trip. I had a few free hours to fill before her arrival. Naturally, I went hunting for murals. My search took me through neighborhoods I might never have seen otherwise, and even then I only scratched the surface. With […]
