In the realm of memorable vacations, a trip to Bald Head Island may conjure up images of a quirky Disney attraction. In reality, this Cape Fear community is located on a fascinating island infused with generations of history. Today, lowkey Bald Head Island has become a refuge for affluent residents who enjoy a relaxed Lifestyle in a largely unspoiled setting. For about two weeks in late 1997, we were lucky enough to join them.
We discovered Bald Head Island in a roundabout way. While preparing for our 1997-98 sailboat cruise to Florida, we told some sailing friends that we planned to Travel down North Carolina’s Cape Fear River (near Wilmington). They immediately contacted a friend who owned a second home (and a boat slip) on Bald Head Island, just a short passenger ferry ride from Southport, North Carolina.
This generous soul gladly volunteered his boat slip for as long as we wanted to stay. He also paid for our Christmas Eve dinner at the exclusive Bald Head Island Club. This little side trip was shaping up to be the upscale vacation our budget didn’t allow. Of course, we graciously accepted his offer.
Just before Christmas 1997, we exited the Cape Fear River and turned Santorini’s bow toward Bald Head Island, just three miles across the well-marked channel. We had a feeling that Bald Head Island would be unlike any coastal community we had seen on our travels down the Intracoastal Waterway. And we were right.
As we stepped off Santorini onto the marina dock, the surrounding air was blissfully quiet. We didn’t hear pickup truck engines, blasting car radios, or other ambient noise common to other coastal towns. Thanks to Bald Head Island’s environmental focus, maintenance and Security vehicles are the only ones with gas-powered engines. Everyone else walks, cycles, or tools around in their electric golf carts.
So what does this well-heeled vacation paradise have to offer? Besides 14 miles of secluded beaches, Bald Head Island boasts a championship golf course with adjacent clubhouse facilities. Residents and visitors also enjoy tennis, croquet, lounging by the pool, and dining at two restaurants.
Growing up near Baltimore, I was used to cold, blustery (and occasionally snowy) late December weather. I certainly didn’t enjoy those temperatures — I endured them. That time of year, my daily wardrobe included a winter coat, scarf, and fleece gloves.
Our Christmas Eve 1997 weather was delightfully different. Because of Bald Head Island’s proximity to the Gulf Stream, the island has North Carolina’s sole subtropical climate. The warmer weather means sabal palms, cabbage palmettos, live oaks, and other subtropical vegetation thrive throughout the island. Because mild winters are the norm, second-home residents are tempted to spend their Christmas holiday far away from their region’s brutally cold weather.
And that’s exactly what we did. On Christmas Eve morning, we stepped off the boat on a sunny, 74-degree day. Basking in the warmth, we decided to hike to Cape Fear, a well-known headland that juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. Cape Fear is named for a 28-mile expanse of shifting underwater sandbars at the Cape Fear River’s mouth. Because countless ships met their demise on this treacherous stretch, the area has long been called Frying Pan Shoals (and the Graveyard of the Atlantic).
On that Christmas Eve, however, we gleefully basked in Cape Fear’s warm sunshine. As a fellow beachgoer snapped our photo, the waves continued to crash on the shoals behind us. That day, we were quite thankful to be on land.
Back on the boat, we freshened up and donned our “go to town” clothes for what would be a memorable Christmas Eve dinner. Arriving at the Bald Head Island Club, we received a warm welcome and enjoyed a delectable meal with superb service. We haven’t experienced this level of “understated elegance” before or since.
During our two-week stay at Bald Head Island Marina, the Indigo Plantation-based passenger ferry arrived and departed multiple times daily. Each time, we felt the large wakes as the ferry’s powerful engines maneuvered the vessel around the boat basin. Although we didn’t particularly relish the disruption, we viewed it as part of our cruising adventure. We kept boat gear, snacks, and drinks stowed away so they wouldn’t crash to the floor when the rollers came through.
For variety, we paid a daily visit (or two) to the marina’s grocery store. After picking up a few things, we often relaxed on the porch with an ice cream treat. We occasionally walked through the marina, checking out new arrivals while wondering about each vessel’s story. Then, it was almost time to make dinner. Rinse and repeat.
Fortunately, Bald Head Island’s owners have avoided turning this natural gem into just another overdeveloped resort community. Although well-appointed homes dot the coast, and others are tucked into the trees, most of the island is part of a nature preserve. A maritime forest covers 173 acres in the island’s central portion while 10,000 acres of salt marshes provide habitats for birds and aquatic creatures.
The Bald Head Island Conservancy oversees the preservation of the island’s natural resources. A Sea Turtle Program, including an Adopt-a-Nest initiative, appeals to residents and visitors alike. With multiple bird species calling Bald Head Island home, the Audubon Society includes the island in its annual national bird count. And for an up-close-and-personal view of the maritime forest and salt marshes, the Conservancy encourages a visit to the half-mile boardwalk and walking trail.
Bald Head Island’s location near Frying Pan Shoals, and the island’s proximity to Wilmington Harbor, set the stage for one of the United States’ first lighthouses. In 1794, the original tower was constructed, but it soon fell victim to erosion.
In 1817, the replacement tower was erected and still stands today. Old Baldy is North Carolina’s oldest lighthouse, although it’s no longer used for navigation. A restored lightkeeper’s cottage now serves as a museum. Two other lightkeepers’ cottages can be seen atop the nearby dunes.
During our visit, we challenged ourselves to climb Old Baldy’s 108 stairs and five landings. Upon reaching the top, we were treated to a spectacular view of the Cape Fear River estuary. While we caught our breath, we soaked up the scenery while imagining the lighthouse keepers’ rather spartan lifestyle — a bit like living on a small cruising sailboat.
